
I’m often asked how to prep still images and how to make them move in a multimedia/video piece. My initial response to this question is to reply with a series of questions – “Why do you want to make your images move?” “What’s your motivation? What do you want to communicate to the viewer?” “Do you need sound and movement to better tell your story?”
I’m not one to do things just because I can – I need a reason. For me a still image is an entity in and of itself – a moment in time to be studied and contemplated. When I present still images in a multimedia presentation – those “moments in time” become part of a greater whole. That new entity becomes a different visual message with sound and motion becoming the underlying spine of the piece. Added information that’s needed to convey that particular story. The still images become sequences and the sound and movement of the piece create the “feel” and “pace” of the whole.
As far as the practical aspects of creating a multimedia piece – the first step is to choose an editing software that works into your workflow. I use Final Cut Pro Studio on a Mac. I use Final Cut Pro (within the suite) if I don’t have a lot of images to edit but lately I’ve been using Motion (also included in the Studio suite) – because it’s easy – once you know it. You don’t need the depth of these software applications to create a simple multimedia piece. There are plenty of software applications to choose from – iMovie and FCP Express in the Apple family, Adobe Premiere (cross platformed if using an Intel Mac) , Sony Vegas for PC’s and simpler programs like Soundslides or Audacity.
There are many tutorials on this subject – check out Ken Stone or Lynda.com – both great places to learn. In the meantime I will share my recipe for how I size and prep my images for multimedia presentations. Like anything else, there are hundreds of ways to get to the same end – but these are my suggestions that I find work best. Another note – I use large image sizes so that I when I bring the images into my editing timeline – I have room to zoom into the images without having to enlarge them beyond 100% in the video application.
My sizing/prepping suggestions for still images:
RGB color mode
Srgb color profile for SD (standard def)
HDTV (Re.709) color profile for HD (hi def)
Tiff, PSD or PNG – better than Jpeg
Don’t over sharpen image – it will jitter on screen
Use de-interlace filter for web videos – but this is something you need to test – I don’t always like the effect this filter has.
Sizing – I always upsize my images 2.5 x needed for video timeline if I will be moving them “Ken Burns” style. Below are different specs for HD and SD and different aspect ratios:
Standard Def – DV NTSC 4:3 – 1800x1350x72 (pixels)(res)
Standard Def – NTSC 16:9 – 2132x1200x72 (pixels)(res)
HD – 720p – 3200x1800x72 (pixels)(res)
HD – 1080i – 4800x2700x72 (pixels)(res)
It’s really never been easier to prep still images in an application like Photoshop because there are lots of built in presets. I always prep all my assets and import them into my editing software before I even begin to edit. That way I don’t need to depart from the edit and lose a train of thought whenever I need to add a still image or other graphic.
Have fun – and when you do decide to move an image – ask yourself why first?



This used to be a tedious process and would involve a lot of work in post production. But thanks to some incredible plug-ins available – you can get a pretty amazing “key” without a lot of hours in the editing room.
– brilliant electrical engineers – were pushing their own boundaries as they ran tests with ice on power lines and automobiles and as much as I was witnessing this work in sub zero temperatures – it was amazing to watch them work. If I hadn’t been so busy with my own technical challenges – I would have loved to just observe them and try to get into their head.
You could almost see their brains working – just by watching their faces. Then to see the triumph in their eyes when their experiments worked – what a thrill. I now need to go to Russia.
to keep them warm and swapped out the warm packs as we shot late into the night. We had to erect large “green screens” so that in post I can insert winter scenes. Problem was our green screens were large pieces of fabric and the chill blowers were blowing them all over the place. We tried to anchor them but in the end we had to turn the blowers off during the shoot. Thank goodness we didn’t need usable audio. We used hot lights and a lot of them. Used every extension cord we had and every outlet in the room – 10,000 watts. Ironic huh – hot lights in a “cold room”. Because of that we had to leave the lights on the entire time because we knew that when we turned them off – we’d get condensation on the bulbs. When we finally did break the set down at midnight – we turned the lights off, let them cool a bit and put garbage bags over them so that as they warmed we wouldn’t get moisture on them. Didn’t really work too well though.
We did the same thing with the cameras and that worked great. Because we had the lights on all day and were using long extension cords – one cord got over heated and actually melted and fused to itself. The Russian electrical engineer noticed it – Thank God – or we would have burned down the building.